In Miklsovar, we stayed at Count Tibor Kalnoky’s hunting lodge just outside the village. The hunting lodge was built in the 15th century by Kalnoky’s ancestors. The family lost the property to the fascists and later the communist regime during which time the lodge was used for storing seeds and as a cinema for the villagers. Today, the count is in the process of restoring the lodge and also runs a number of guest houses for visitors. When we went, all the guest houses were booked so we were given Count Kalnoky’s own room in the hunting lodge. We had the place to ourselves except for the horses grazing outside . . .